In the heart of Florence, Michelin-starred Chef Vito Mollica brings tradition to the table with a touch of innovation, creating unforgettable dining experiences at Salotto Portinari and his latest venture, ATTO. Known for his dedication to seasonality and top-quality local ingredients, Chef Mollica balances classic Italian flavors with refined techniques, allowing each dish to honor its roots while inviting exploration.
In this interview, Chef Mollica shares how he combines authenticity and creativity in his cuisine, his philosophy of “km 0,” and how the rich history of Florence continues to inspire his culinary journey.
How do you balance the traditional approach of Tuscan cuisine with the innovation found in your creations?
In our restaurant, both in the bistro and at ATTO, tradition is the starting point of inspiration, whether Tuscan, Italian, or tied to the calendar, such as Easter, Christmas, and the seasons. From there, we innovate and create. We’re traditionalists who constantly renew ourselves.
What are the essential ingredients of Florentine cuisine that are always on your menu?
We focus a lot on seasonality; besides meat, of course, such as Chianina beef and fish from the Tyrrhenian Sea, which we source from Livorno and Viareggio. Mushrooms, Morello artichokes, and many other ingredients must appear seasonally in our kitchen.
Are there also exotic ingredients, imported from outside Italy?
At ATTO, we serve high-quality Japanese beef and also incorporate flavors from Basilicata with traditional legumes and pasta dishes from that region. Having grown up in Lombardy with a Piedmontese wife, risottos are a must. Our culinary philosophy reflects Italian cuisine but also embraces the finest international products, such as Spanish ham or French seafood, like fish and oysters. We’re always focused on selecting only the best ingredients for our guests.
The concept of “km 0” is fundamental to your culinary philosophy. How do you choose suppliers, and how does this choice impact your creations at both Salotto Portinari and ATTO? What does it mean to you to cook with seasonal, local ingredients, and how does this approach enhance your guests’ experience?
Our suppliers are the result of relationships built over the years. We may have a supplier who brings us only Tuscan saffron, or another who provides a variety of products. For us, “km 0” is not limited to geographic proximity to Florence but is based on ethical criteria and fundamental principles we require from our suppliers: sustainability, regular employee hiring, and care for the environment. We use products from specific regions, such as Abruzzo or Sicily, precisely because their microclimate makes them unique.
What is the distinguishing feature of ATTO’s menu compared to that of Salotto Portinari? Are there ingredients or dishes that best express ATTO’s identity?
ATTO is conceived as a true culinary ritual, as the name suggests—an “act,” like in theater, with an entrance, a beginning, and a continuous journey through the menu, where even the service is part of the experience. The menu stands out for its carefully selected, refined ingredients. Salotto Portinari, on the other hand, offers a more flexible service for those who love traditional cuisine but prefer a quicker option than a Michelin-starred restaurant, while still appreciating high quality.
Both restaurants embrace principles of tradition and seasonality, though in different settings and rituals. Salotto, in addition, offers more flexible services than ATTO, as it’s open all day, allowing guests to enjoy a meal at any hour, while ATTO offers a more structured experience.
What motivated you to open ATTO, and how does it fit into your evolution as a chef?
Definitely the location. I previously worked for a hotel chain as a manager. Today, I am an entrepreneur, but what motivated me was the excitement and energy I feel for Palazzo Portinari. The idea of having my restaurant within one of the most beautiful rooms in Italy thrilled me from the very beginning.
This experience comes as I enter my fifties—a mature age that brings tolerance, wisdom, and confidence in interacting with my staff and team. Today, I understand even more how easy it is to make a team work. In the past, I handled everything personally; now, reference points have naturally formed.
Which dish best represents your culinary philosophy and why?
It’s hard to pick just one dish because I believe we have several that stand out. We use ingredients that we often evolve based on the season. For example, our pigeon dish. I like to talk more about our interpretation of ingredients, striving to make them flavorful, technically perfect, and digestible, with pairings that properly balance acidity.
Each season has its own essential ingredient; it depends on the time of year.
You’ve worked in various cities and contexts. How have these international experiences influenced your cooking?
My cooking today is an evolution of my entire career and encounters. Often, it’s not about physically traveling but meeting people who provide new inspiration. I consider myself someone who has gained a lot of experience and many connections, and some of my dishes have changed precisely because of this. I’ve never tried to reproduce others’ cuisine but always aimed to make my influences my own.
Is there any element of the atmosphere or historical tradition of Antica Torre Tornabuoni that inspires you or that you find reflected in Salotto Portinari or ATTO?
For me, the Torre evokes the grand history of Florence, and this inspires me tremendously to imagine the aromas, scents, and ingredients of that period and bring them into the modern era.
If you considered Antica Torre Tornabuoni a dish, what would you envision?
It makes me think of butcher shops that might have existed in the Middle Ages or the Renaissance, so I imagine dishes based on courtyard animals’ meat.